Visiting this beautiful town of Mostar, Bosnia has never really been on my bucket list. It far exceeded my expectations and I absolutely fell in love with the town. As my awareness regarding the history of the war only 25 years ago grew, it was crazy to comprehend that this town which was once a war zone of rubble has transformed into such an amazing place today.
Mostar is a city in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina, straddling the Neretva River. It’s known for the iconic Stari Most (Old Bridge) a reconstructed medieval arched bridge. The nearby alleys are full of shops and market stalls, and the Old Bridge Museum explores the bridge’s long history. Mostar is the sixth-largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina by population of just over 100,000.
The city was the most heavily bombed out of any Bosnian city during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina following the breakup of Yugoslavia. At the beginning of the war, air strikes destroyed many important buildings and structures damaging the city historical core.
Mostar has been most famous for this beautiful historic Ottoman-style bridge, which spanned the Neretva river in what is considered the historic center of the city. Over the past 25 years a significant portion of the city has been rebuilt and visitors might be surprised to see that this formerly war-torn city is a lively and beautiful destination. Particularly the area within and around the old town. However, many visible signs of Mostar’s troubled recent history remain.
In this blog we share with you our recommendations on the best things to do in Mostar, best way to get around and where to stay.
Stari Most
How to get to Mostar?
We made our way from Split in Croatia to Mostar by bus. The bus journey took 4 hours and the drive was so incredibly scenic we wished it was longer. To book your bus ticket click HERE.
By bus there are two bus stations in Mostar, the main station next to the train station on the Bosniak (Muslim) part of the city and the bus station on the Croat side of town. Most buses stop first at the main station, which is in walking distance to the historic old centre.
Getting there from Sarajevo, Bosnia there is also bus and train options. Between Sarajevo and Mostar we found up to 11 bus departures throughout the day. Earliest being 6am and the latest around 7pm. Bus journey can take around 2 and a half hours and tickets range from 8 euros to 11 euros.
The best way to travel the scenic 129km (80 miles) between Sarajevo & Mostar is by train, using one of the two impressive air-conditioned Bosnian Talgo trains with morning & late afternoon departures.
Where to stay in Mostar?
Hostel Lovely Home is a family run Hostel with friendly atmosphere. Its centrally located betwen bus and train station and famous Old Bridge and Old Town. Five minutes from many of the best local restaurants, bars, cafes and shops. Coffee tea and breakfast is available daily and beds are from 30 euros a night.
Ahmed and his family are extremely friendly. As soon as you arrive you are greeted with open arms and warm smiles. You immediatly can tell he loves his country. He answered all the history questions we threw at him and we chatted for hours. Ahmed gives a map of the city for you to go exploring and also organises day trip tours to see top places, including Kravice waterfalls and Pocitelj castle with lunch included. We did the day tour and really enjoyed it. Its a great way to see the top places with your very own tour guide Amed and we would highly reccomend doing the tour with him. He is also well loved throughout the town, as all the locals greeted him and always stopped to say hello.
Tour Brouchure
Best things to do in Mostar!
Stari Most
Stari Most ( known as “Old Bridge”) is a rebuilt 16th-century Ottoman bridge in the city of Mostar that crosses the river Neretva and connects the two parts of the city. The Old Bridge is a symbol of Mostar which stood for 427 years before it was damaged first by JNA forces during 1992. On 9th November 1993 it was destroyed by Croatian Defence Council tanks positioned on Hum hill after two days of heavy shelling during the Croat–Bosniak War. Remnants of the 90’s conflict are also visible in dilapidated buildings.
Subsequently a project was set in motion to reconstruct it. After the war the bridge was rebuilt, using many of the same limestone blocks that were salvaged from the river. In 2004 Prince Charles reopened the bridge,his was symbolic and a sign that life was slowly returning to normal. As well as being testament to the courage and persistence of the city’s inhabitants. UNESCO added the bridge to their World Heritage list in 2005, saying “The Old Bridge area, with its pre-Ottoman, eastern Ottoman, Mediterranean and western European architectural features, is an outstanding example of a multicultural urban settlement. The reconstructed Old Bridge and Old City of Mostar is a symbol of reconciliation, international co-operation and of the coexistence of diverse cultural, ethnic and religious communities.”
Ahmed our Hostel owner could see we were fascinated about the war in Mostar so he reccomended us to watch a BBC documentary on YouTube filmed during the conflict. search “The War In Mostar (BBC)” in YouTube and it is a 45 min insight into what was happening in the town only not that many years ago. Watching this felt so surreal because the Stari Most bridge that we just walked over eating ice cream was a completed war zone and crossing it back then you were risking you life from getting shot.
Today Mostar is well worth a visit and Stari Most is one of the country’s most recognizable landmarks. Crowds of tourists gather to watch the locals jump off the 24 meter high bridge. The locals collect money from the tourists to then do the jump as a source of their income. It is not common for tourist to jump off the bridge however if they choose to they have to receive permission from the local jumpers.
The Ottoman quarter has been sympathetically restored and there are a number of artesan shops and pretty cafes. There are many cafes and restaurants lined on the Neretva river. There food here is very Turkish influenced with the main cuisine serving meat and stuffed vegetables.
Our favourite restaurant was DIVAN. Great food and beautiful views of a nearby small waterfall. Enjoy a glass of wine wile listening to the water.
Stari Most
Old Town
Neretva river
Blagaj
Blagaj Tekija is a Dervish monastery outside Mostar, that’s nearly 600 years old. Situated at the base of a cliff next to the source of the river Buna. The Blagaj Tekija was built around 1520, with elements of Ottoman architecture and Mediterranean style and is considered a national monument.
Restaurants and souvenir shops now line the river bank. After you snap the photo you see at the top, you can take a brief boat ride into the cave, that’s the start of the Buna River. The water’s pure enough to drink from directly (the water in this part of Bosnia tastes better than the bottled stuff, even from the tap).
It cost a few marks to go into the monastery but its worth it. Take your shoes off before you enter and scarfs and long skirts are available to wear if you don’t have the appropriate cover.
Once inside you are free to walk into the small rooms of the monastery. Unlike the bare walls and floors common to many old and refurbished historical buildings, the Tekke feels like a real place, with carpets and pillows. Its a very calm and peaceful place.
Blagaj Tekija
Buna River
Buna River and shops
Počitelj
Počitelj is a village in the Čapljina. The historic site of Počitelj is located on the left bank of the river Neretva, on the main Mostar to Metković road and it is about 30 km to the south of Mostar. The stepped Ottoman-era fortress village of Počitelj is one of the most picture-perfect architectural ensembles in the country.
The village is built in a natural karst amphiteatre along the Neretva river. The walled town of Počitelj evolved in the period from the 16th to the 18th centuries. Architecturally, the stone-constructed parts of the town are a fortified complex, in which two stages of evolution are evident: medieval, and Ottoman.
Towering over this dreamlike scene is the Kula (Fort of Počitelj), the original structure of which is supposed to date back to the construction of the original fortified citadel by Bosnia’s King Stjepan Tvrtko I in 1383. At 45m above sea level, it offers stunning views along the River Neretva and across the village itself.
The large 1562 Hadži Alijina Mosque has been fully restored since the 1990s destruction, while the 16m clock tower remains bell-less, as it has been since 1917. One of the most impressive Ottoman-period single-room domed mosques in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Built in 1563 and notable for its special acoustic qualities, the mosque was reconstructed and restored to its natural use in 2002.
The most iconic building is the climbable octagonal Gavrakapetan Tower in the still part-ruined Utvrda fortress. But for even better panoramas climb to the uppermost rampart bastions. Breathtaking!
Drone photo of Počitelj and Gavrakapetan Tower
Hadži Alijina Mosque
Gavrakapetan Tower
Kravica Waterfall
Kravica waterfall, often called Kravice, is a large tufa cascade on the Trebižat River 40 kilometres (25 mi) south of Mostar. Its height is about 25 metres (80 ft) and separatse into 20 wateralls. The radius of the lake in the base of the waterfall is 120 metres (390 ft). If you are there in the summer, you can opt fro hire a canoe and go rafting. However, spring is probably the best time to visit the Kravice waterfalls as the weather and the lush green scenery is particularly welcoming during the season. The Kravica Falls area also has a little cafe, a rope swing, a picnic area, and a place to camp.
Kravica Waterfall
Kravica Waterfall
How to get around Mostar?
If you are considering doing all these in a day we would recommend waking up early and going to the bridge first thing in the morning. If you do the tour with Ahmed the tours starts at 11am and drops you back around 6pm. Getting around Mostar city centre is easy by foot however these places are quit spread out, you would either have to do Ahmeds tour or organise your way way of transport.
Buses
Local transport is excellent in and around Mostar. Mostar Bus, located at the main bus and railway station, covers the town and most of the surrounding areas (Capljina, Pocitelj, Blagaj) with routes that run all day long. Bus fares within the city are usually 1KM for a one-way trip within the city limits, regardless of how far the destination. The Mostar Bus office in the main bus station is helpful and has current schedules (phone: + 387 36 552 025; web: www.autobusni-kolodvor.com).
Taxis
Taxi rates are standard: 3KM to start and 1KM (0.50 Euros) for each additional kilometer. As Mostar is tucked neatly into a valley and fairly compact, a taxi anywhere around town shouldn’t cost more than 10KM.
We hope you have enjoyed reading our blog and we hope this information helps you plan your next trip to Mostar.
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